Christmas in Paris With My Cousin: A Gay Traveler's Cousin Trip Itinerary

Written By Nick Guillory

I Don't Do Cousin Trips. So Why Was I in Paris for Christmas With My Cousin?

Nick in a long coat on a bridge over the Seine with the Eiffel Tower behind him at Christmas

Okay, let me just say this upfront: I do NOT travel with people. If you've been rocking with me for a minute, you already know I'm a solo traveler through and through. I like waking up when I want, eating when I want, changing my whole plan at 2pm because I saw a cute café, and not having to negotiate with anybody about any of it. So the fact that I spent Christmas in Paris with my cousin? Baby, that was a FIRST for me.

And here's the thing, this wasn't some cute, random "let's go to Europe, girl!" trip. Her father had passed away not long before we went. My mother passed away about six years before that. So we were two people carrying the same kind of heavy, and Christmas is a weird time to be carrying it. I don't know what it was exactly, but we both kind of knew we didn't want to sit at home staring at that empty seat at the table. So we went to Paris instead.

I'll be honest, it was part grief trip, part trauma bonding, and part "oh my God, we're really in Paris right now." We laughed a LOT. We got cold as hell. I got lit on a boat. We ate way too much cheese (well, not as much as I wanted, but we'll get to that). And somewhere in all of that, I realized traveling with family when you're both going through it hits different than traveling alone. Not better, not worse. Just different.

So this is the whole trip, day by day, with the photos, the food, the links, and a cousin trip itinerary at the bottom if you want to steal it for you and your own cousin. Let's get into it.

Where to Stay in Paris

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Shangri-La Paris — Eiffel Tower views – Click here for rates & availability

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Pavillon de la Reine — Marais luxury – Click here for rates & availability

⭐⭐⭐⭐ National des Arts et Métiers — Rooftop bar – Click here for rates & availability

⭐⭐⭐⭐ Hôtel Jules & Jim — Chic Marais hideaway – Click here for rates & availability

⭐⭐⭐⭐ Hôtel du Petit Moulin — Quirky design – Click here for rates & availability

⭐⭐⭐⭐ Hôtel Dame des Arts — Left Bank rooftop – Click here for rates & availability

Days 1 & 2 (Christmas Eve + Christmas Day): Walk, Gawk, and Get Your Bearings

We landed on Christmas Eve, dropped our bags at the hotel (I did a whole breakdown of where to stay in my Paris hotel guide and did absolutely nothing productive. And I mean that as a compliment. We didn't book a tour, we didn't rush to a museum, we just walked. Because when you get to Paris for the first time together, you're both like, "Oh my God, we're in PARIS. We have to go look at stuff." So we went and looked at stuff.

Are the Love Locks Still a Thing in Paris?

You're going to see these little padlocks clipped onto bridge railings all over the city, so let me give you the tea. Couples used to write their names on a lock, snap it onto a bridge, and throw the key in the Seine, like "our love is locked forever, baby." The most famous spot was the Pont des Arts, and it got so out of hand that by 2015 the city removed about 45 tons of locks because whole sections of the railing were literally ripping off and could have fallen onto the boats below. Forty-five TONS of love, y'all. They swapped the railings for glass panels, but people still sneak locks onto other bridges, which is what you're seeing here. Cute? Yes. Should you add to it? Eh, maybe just take the picture.

Christmas Day in Paris

Christmas Day was sunny and cold as HELL. Like, beautiful blue sky, and the wind is cutting straight through your coat. We walked the river, cut through the parks near the Eiffel Tower, and just let the city do its thing. A lot of shops and restaurants close or run short hours on December 25th, so honestly, a walking day is the move. The views are free and the views are open.

Now this one made us crack up. We're from Louisiana, so when we walked up on this big heart sculpture down by the river and saw what looked like CRAWFISH making up the heart, we were like, "Wait, they knew we were coming?" Okay, full transparency: it's actually called Crevettes de Paris, "Paris Shrimp," by artist Nastassia Kotava, made from recycled boat parts and sitting on the quay at Port de Suffren, right by the tower. But you can't tell two Louisiana people that's not crawfish. We know what we saw.

This is us taking in the sights and trying not to freeze to death. Look at the earmuffs. Look at the scarves. We were SO cold. If you're doing Paris in December, pack layers, a real coat, a beanie, and gloves, because the sun is lying to you.

And this little green car? I just saw it parked on the street and had to have a moment with it. That's the thing about walking around Paris with no plan. Every corner is giving you something to look at.

Christmas Night: Getting Cute for a Seine River Dinner Cruise

Guys. I'm gay. You already knew that, but in case you needed visual confirmation, here I am getting ready for our Christmas dinner on the river. A little flex in the hotel bathroom never hurt nobody. If you're going to do one dressed-up night in Paris, make it the Christmas dinner cruise, because the city is lit up, the Eiffel Tower is sparkling, and you're going to want pictures.

And here we are in the hotel lobby, babes. Grown folks stuff. We READY. Now, can we talk about this coat? Because yes, it's wrinkled, and no, I don't care. Funny story: I was living in Puerto Vallarta at the time, so I did not own a coat. Why would I? It's 85 degrees there in December. So my cousin literally BROUGHT me a coat. It's from H&M (shop the look), and it ended up being in basically every single photo from this trip. That's family, y'all. She knew I was going to show up to Paris in December with a hoodie and a prayer.

The Dinner Cruise

We did a dinner cruise down the Seine, and I'll be honest, I forgot the name of the company. But look at that view. The Eiffel Tower is lit up behind me, the beacon is sweeping across the sky, and we're sitting on the deck of a boat like we own something. Christmas in Paris on the water is something else.

Look how CUTE we are. We had so much fun on that boat. Well, I got lit. She did not get lit. Somebody had to be the responsible one, and it wasn't going to be me.

What We Ate on the Boat

The food was… okay. I'm not going to lie to you. I got the steak with mashed potatoes, and it was fine. Not life-changing. You're paying for the view and the experience, not a Michelin star.

This was her plate, steak with scalloped potatoes, and I don't think she loved it. She ate it, but she didn't LOVE it, if you know what I mean.

And then the cheese plate. Now. They KNOW damn well they could've given us more cheese than that. We're in FRANCE. Four little pieces? But I'll give them this, everything on that plate was delicious, and I love jam with cheese, so I was happy. Just give me more next time.

Dessert was some kind of caramel tart, and it was a good way to end the night. (If you want the full food rundown from this trip, I've got a whole post on [everything I ate in Paris].

The Best Seine River Cruises in Paris

Since I can't remember which boat we took, here are the popular ones people actually book. Prices change by season, so check the link before you go.

My two cents: if food matters to you, do the one-hour sightseeing cruise at night and book a real restaurant after. If the experience matters more (and on Christmas, it did for us), do the dinner cruise and set your expectations on the plate accordingly.

Day 3 (Dec 26): My Night Out + a Paris Metro Intermission

Y'all, this is the day I went OUT. Cousin trip or not, I'm still a solo traveler at heart, and part of what made this trip work was that we didn't have to be glued together 24/7. She stayed in, I put on the coat (the H&M coat, obviously, it was the only coat I had), and I went to go see what gay Paris was giving. I break down the bars and the scene in my [gay Paris / Paris cruising guide — ADD LINK].

Intermission: Can We Talk About How Clean the Paris Metro Is?

Honey. The subway. I need a moment. Look at this station! Glass doors on the platform, bright lights, clean floors. I LOVED my time on the Paris metro. I've been on a lot of subways around the world, and this one had me feeling like I was in the airport. A few things I'd tell you before you ride:

  • Tickets: A single metro ticket is €2.50 since January 2025, and the old 10-ticket carnet is gone. If you're staying a few days, get a Navigo Easy card or use the official transit app on your phone so you're not standing in line at the machines every time.

  • Watch your stuff. Paris pickpockets are no joke, especially on the lines that hit the big tourist stops. Phone in your front pocket, bag zipped and in front of you, and don't stand right by the doors scrolling.

  • Doors don't always open on their own. On older trains you press the button or lift the latch yourself. Don't stand there looking crazy like I almost did.

  • Keep your ticket until you exit. Inspectors do check, and the fine is not worth it.

  • Last trains run around 12:40am (later on Friday and Saturday nights), so if you're going out, plan your ride home or budget for an Uber.

Day 4 (Dec 27): Letters to Our Future Selves, Croque Madame, and the Eiffel Tower at Night

Writing Letters to Our Future Selves at Café Pli

This was one of my favorite things we did, and I wasn't expecting it. We went to Café Pli, a letter-writing café at 38 rue du Faubourg du Temple in the 11th. You get your coffee, you pick out your stationery, you write a letter to yourself (or to somebody else), seal it, and they mail it to you on a future date: 1 year for €15 with a drink and supplies included, 5 years for €25, even 20 years for €45, plus €4 for international postage.

And look, when you're both grieving a parent, sitting down to write to the version of yourself who's a year down the road… that hits. I'm not going to get all deep about it here, but it was quiet, and it was ours, and if you're doing a trip like this with somebody you love, I can't recommend it enough.

Arc de Triomphe + the Best Croque Madame

Then we walked over to the Arc de Triomphe, because you can't come to Paris and not do the obligatory Arc selfie. It sits at the top of the Champs-Élysées, and walking down that avenue around Christmas with all the lights is a whole vibe.

And then lunch. This is a croque madame, which is basically a grilled ham and cheese with béchamel sauce and a fried egg on top, and baby, it was SO good. Crispy cheese on top, fries on the side, little salad so you can pretend. (It's on my [everything I ate in Paris — ADD LINK] list for a reason.)

We clearly had something to drink with lunch, because look at us. We look like we're having the time of our lives. And honestly? We were.

The Eiffel Tower by Day

I love Paris, but man, it was SO cold. This is one of my favorite shots from the whole trip, though: the Eiffel Tower framed in that little opening between the bare, shaved-down trees. Winter Paris has its own kind of pretty.

Me being silly. As one does.

I just love the Eiffel Tower SO much. It's such a cool landmark, and walking the grounds during the day is free, so even if you don't go up, go stand under it.

This is when we got in line to go up. Write the time down: it was around 3:30 in the afternoon, sunny, gorgeous.

Still waiting. Still cute. Still smiling. That jump? That's the last bit of joy I had before the cold set into my bones.

Going Up the Eiffel Tower at Night

By the time we finally got up in the damn thing, it was DARK. Like, we went in during golden hour and came out at night. And it was freezing up there. But I'm going to be real with you: the Eiffel Tower at night is incredible.

Look at that view of the city with the beacon sweeping across the sky.

Standing underneath it when it's all lit up gold is something else. Tongue out, freezing, happy. That's the whole trip in one picture.

Eiffel Tower Tips (Learn From My Mess)

  • BOOK. AHEAD. I cannot say this enough. What a mess. Buy timed tickets on the official Eiffel Tower site as early as you can, especially for Christmas week. Current adult prices are €36.70 for the summit by elevator, €23.50 for the 2nd floor by elevator, and €14.80 to take the stairs to the 2nd floor.

  • Time it for sunset. In late December it gets dark around 5pm. Book a slot around 4pm and you'll get the city in daylight AND lit up, without the three-hour wait we did.

  • Dress like it's the Arctic up there. It is so much colder and windier at the top than on the ground.

  • The summit can close in bad weather or when it's packed, so the 2nd floor is your backup, and the view from there is honestly great.

  • Catch the sparkle. After dark, the tower sparkles for 5 minutes at the top of every hour. Be on the ground for at least one of those.

If the official tickets are sold out (they will be at Christmas), book one of these instead:

  1. Paris: Eiffel Tower Tour with Summit or 2nd Floor Access — guided, elevator access, and you skip the guesswork.

  2. Paris: Eiffel Tower Guided Tour with Summit Access — smaller semi-private group if you don't want to be herded.

  3. Paris: Eiffel Tower Summit Floor Ticket & Seine River Cruise — tower + a river cruise in one booking, which is basically our Christmas Day and this day combined.

Day 5 (Dec 28): Montmartre, Sacré-Cœur, Beyoncé's Whiskey, and the Moulin Rouge

This day we headed up to Montmartre, the hilltop neighborhood in the 18th with the cobblestone streets, the artists, the little cafés, all of it. And I found this incredible hot dog situation from a little street-side spot and, baby, it was SO good. I'm talking stop-in-the-middle-of-the-street good. (Yes, it's in my everything I ate in Paris post too.) Montmartre is very walkable, but it's steep, so wear real shoes. If you'd rather have someone tell you the history while you climb, this Montmartre guided walking tour is a good one.

Now, my cousin's mom is Catholic. VERY Catholic. So, child, we HAD to go see some churches. This is the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, sitting at the very top of Montmartre on the highest point in the city, with that white dome you can see from all over Paris. Even if you're not religious, go for the view from the steps out front. You can see the whole city laid out.

This whole area is so interesting. Like… me and that man, what am I doing? I'm being silly, that's what I'm doing. Also, can we talk about how TAN I am? Puerto Vallarta was doing its job. Meanwhile it was freezing.

Warming Up With SirDavis (Bring Your Pocketbooks)

We had to get warmed up, honey. So we ducked into a bar and ordered SirDavis, which is Beyoncé's American whisky she launched with Moët Hennessy and named after her great-grandfather, Davis Hogue. And this shit was $50. FIFTY DOLLARS. Can you believe that? Okay, so let this be your reminder: bring your pocketbooks, because Paris is NOT cheap, especially when you're ordering drinks in tourist neighborhoods.

And you can tell I'm a little lit, because here I am at the Moulin Rouge, posing like I'm the headliner. The Moulin Rouge opened in 1889 and it's the birthplace of the modern can-can, and that red windmill at the bottom of Montmartre is iconic. We didn't see the show, but the outside alone is worth the photo stop. How cute.

Round Two: My Night Out

And then it was time to get ready to go out again. Yes, those are pimple patches on my face. Skin care is self-care, okay? These are the ones I use: shop my pimple patches on Amazon

This was part of my night out in the Marais, the city's main gay neighborhood. I'm not going to put all my business on this post, but if you want the real rundown on the bars and the cruising scene, I wrote a whole [Paris cruising guide — ADD LINK] for exactly that.

Day 6 (Dec 29): The Louvre, a Surprise Cousin, and the Mona Lisa (Again)

On our last full day, we did the Louvre, and we got a surprise: my OTHER cousin, Jordan, met up with us! She just happened to be in Paris because her boyfriend lives there, so she slid through and made it a three-cousin day. Which, for a solo traveler like me, is basically a family reunion. Look at that pyramid ceiling, though.

The Mona Lisa, for the Third Time

Okay. Girl. This was my THIRD time seeing the Mona Lisa, and I do not need to see her again. Not because of her. Because of the people around her.

This is the best picture I could get with her, because the staff were RUSHING people through.

Look at this. That's how they act. So rude. But I get it. We were there about two months after the Louvre heist on October 19, 2025, when thieves used a freight lift, broke in through a window and got away with crown jewels worth about €88 million in under eight minutes. So yeah, security was on edge, and they wanted everybody to move along. Annoying? Yes. Understandable? Also yes.

Louvre tips: book a timed entry ticket ahead of time (the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays), go first thing in the morning, and head to the Mona Lisa FIRST before the crowds stack up. If you want somebody else to deal with the logistics, these are solid: Skip-the-Line Louvre & Mona Lisa Guided Tour or Louvre & Mona Lisa Tour with Reserved Entry.

The Tea on the Louvre's Pyramids

Now THIS is my favorite photo. Look how sophisticated I look. Baby, I LIVE. This cute spot is the inverted pyramid, la Pyramide Inversée, in the underground Carrousel du Louvre area, and it's one of the best photo spots in the whole museum complex.

Now THIS is my favorite photo. Look how sophisticated I look. Baby, I LIVE. This cute spot is the inverted pyramid, la Pyramide Inversée, in the underground Carrousel du Louvre area, and it's one of the best photo spots in the whole museum complex.

So here's the tea on why it looks so modern. Back in 1981, President François Mitterrand launched a huge project to modernize the Louvre, and the museum had a real problem: it's a former royal palace, and there was no good central entrance. Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei designed the glass pyramid in the main courtyard as the new front door, letting light into a giant underground lobby that connects all three wings. It opened in 1989 with 675 diamond-shaped and 118 triangular glass panes, and the glass was specially made to be extra clear so you can still see the old palace through it.

And people HATED it at first. A big modern glass pyramid in front of a centuries-old palace? Parisians were clutching their pearls. Now it's one of the most photographed things in the city. The inverted pyramid down here (84 diamond and 28 triangular panes) was added a few years later as a skylight for the underground shopping area, pointing down toward that little stone pyramid on the floor, which is what you're seeing me pose with. There are actually five pyramids in total around the Louvre.

Nick Guillory
Previous

Why I Liked Chiang Mai WAY More Than Bangkok (+ How I Spent 3 Days There)
Next

The Top Gay & Nude Beaches in Europe