The Ha Giang Loop: My Honest Guide to the Best 3 Days I've Ever Had in Vietnam

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Let me just say it up front: the Ha Giang Loop was one of the best things I will EVER do in my life. Period.

And I almost didn't do it.

My tour guide back in Ho Chi Minh City was showing me photos of Ha Giang on his phone, and I was like... WOW. The mountains. The greenery. The nature. That is SO my vibe. I knew right then I wanted that experience.

But was I nervous? Girl, I was SO damn nervous. When you don't know what you're getting yourself into, it gets more wild the older you get. Because wait... I gotta ride on the back of somebody's bike for HOURS on end, every single day? You got me messed up. What?

Spoiler: I'm so glad I did it. Here's everything, from how I got there and the tour I booked to the day-by-day, what it costs and what to pack (which is barely anything).

The Ha Giang Loop at a Glance

  • Where: Ha Giang province, the far north of Vietnam, right up against the border with China

  • How long: I did 3 days, 2 nights. Tours run anywhere from 2 to 5 days.

  • Distance: Roughly 350 km on the classic 3-day route

  • Getting there: Sleeper bus from Hanoi

  • How I did it: On the back of an easy rider (a local driver) with BiBi Ha Giang Loop Tour

  • Best time to go: March to May and September to November. I went in early June and it was HOT.

How I Got From Hanoi to Ha Giang

Sleeper bus. That's how most people get up there. You lay down, you try to sleep, you wake up in the mountains. I've got a whole breakdown of the buses I've taken around the country in my Vietnam sleeper bus reviews, so read that before you book. A lot of the loop companies (BiBi included) can also arrange the bus for you and have somebody meet you when you get in.

Easy Rider or Drive Yourself?

Easy rider. THANK GOD. I would never do that by myself. Absolutely not.

An easy rider is a local driver who knows these roads like the back of their hand. You sit on the back, you hold on, you take in the views and you film everything. These roads are steep, curvy, full of trucks, and the weather can change in the middle of a pass. If you've never ridden a motorbike on mountain roads before, this is NOT the place to learn.

Self-driving is cheaper, and plenty of people do it. But for me? The whole point was to actually SEE Ha Giang, not stare at the road for three days praying.

The Tour I Booked: BiBi Ha Giang Loop Tour

I went with BiBi Ha Giang Loop Tour, and I'd recommend them. They were great. The drivers were safe and the homestays were great.

Here's what to know about booking with them:

  • They run 2-day, 3-day, 4-day and 5-day loops, plus longer routes out to Ban Gioc Waterfall in Cao Bang. You can book their 3-day loop (the one I did) or their 4-day loop on GetYourGuide.

  • Tours start and end at their place in Ha Giang City.

  • You can choose a shared homestay dorm or pay extra for a private room. More on that below.

Want to compare options first? Here are other Ha Giang Loop easy rider tours on GetYourGuide.

My Ha Giang Loop, Day by Day

Every company runs a slightly different route. Here's exactly what my three days looked like.

Day 1: Ha Giang City to Du Gia

We rolled out of Ha Giang City in the morning, and within an HOUR we were riding through golden rice fields with mountains all around us. We stopped at one field and everybody piled into the back of a farm tractor cart for photos. It was so silly, and I loved it.

Then came the craziest moment of the whole trip. We came up on a big truck going one way and ANOTHER big truck going the other way, on a road that was basically one lane. Neither of them could get through. Everybody's stuck, bikes are lined up behind them... and then a full-on fist fight breaks out. I'm sitting on the back of a motorbike in the mountains of Vietnam watching this like, is this part of the tour?? It was crazy.

After that, we stopped at a waterfall and the whole group jumped in. Cold water after hours on the bike in that heat? It hit the SPOT.

Then lunch, and this is the meal I still think about. We ate during the day at a spot right by a little creek in the mountains. A whole table of dishes, everybody passing plates, the creek right there. That one stuck with me.

In the afternoon we stopped at a pine forest with hammocks strung between the trees and a view over the valley. My butt needed that break, honey.

We ended the day at our homestay in Du Gia, a little village in a valley surrounded by mountains. And yes, I had a private room. Because I was VIP, darling. Floor-to-ceiling windows, my own balcony, mountains everywhere. Then a big family-style dinner with the whole group.

Day 2: Du Gia to Ma Pi Leng and Dong Van

Day 2 started at a viewpoint looking straight down into the valley, and I took a LOT of photos in that one spot. Can you blame me?

We did a boat ride on the river (conical hat and all), stopped at cafes with views over the rice terraces, and kept climbing up roads that wrap around the mountains like ribbon.

Then Ma Pi Leng Pass. This is the view everybody comes to Ha Giang for: the Nho Que River, bright turquoise, snaking through a canyon way, WAY down below you. Pictures do not do it justice.

And on the ride toward Dong Van, there's a spot where you can look out over the mountains and literally see CHINA. Like, that's another country right there. That was so cool to me.

We spent the night in Dong Van. Hotpot dinner, karaoke, a walk through the old quarter at night when everything is lit up, and then half the group ended up getting foot massages. Very needed.

Day 3: Dong Van Back to Ha Giang City

The last day starts in the rocky plateau around Dong Van, which looks like another planet. Gray stone everywhere, jagged mountains, and little villages tucked in between.

And then... THE curvy road. This was the single most breathtaking moment of the whole loop for me. The road zig-zags back and forth down the side of the mountain, and you're standing at the top looking down at it like, we're about to ride THAT? Yes. Yes we were.

We had one more big group lunch, stopped at the Quan Ba Heaven Gate viewpoint for a fresh coconut, and then rode the last stretch back down to Ha Giang City. Look at this face.

The Group: Me and a Bunch of 20-Year-Olds

There were about 20 of us, and most of them were in their 20s. That's what was so cool. I was like, wait, I'm out here with 20-year-olds doing this at almost 40? That felt GOOD.

The Best and the Worst

The best: The curvy road on Day 3, and seeing China from the top of the mountains. I'll never forget either of them.

The worst: The sore butt. The sore butt was INSANE. You're on the back of a bike for hours, it's hot, your butt hurts... it's exhausting. But it's also SO exhilarating. Both things are true at the same time.

The Food

The food was phenomenal. Every meal was family style, a whole table covered with dishes, and you just keep eating. Whatever meals your tour includes are covered, but any food and drinks outside of that are on you. So bring cash.

What the Days and Nights Are Like

During the day it's a karaoke, party-on-the-bike kind of vibe. Music, singing, stopping for photos every 20 minutes. Not a drinking thing, just good energy.

At night, yes, the happy water (local rice wine) comes out. But real talk? We were all so burnt out we went to sleep. Do not come to the Ha Giang Loop expecting a party every night. Your body will make the decision for you.

Is the Ha Giang Loop Safe?

I never once felt unsafe. The drivers with BiBi were safe as hell. They know these roads.

But I stayed SUITED UP. Knee pads, elbow pads, the helmet, all of it. Some of the younger kids weren't wearing their protective gear, and I said, nope, not me. I'm doing this the proper way. I'm not getting hurt out here. Wear the gear. Every day. Every ride.

And get travel insurance. I got it specifically for this trip, and you should too, for obvious reasons. You're on a motorbike on mountain roads for three days. Make sure the policy you pick covers riding as a passenger on a motorbike.

๐Ÿ›Ÿ Don't Skip Travel Insurance

Motorbikes, typhoon season, street food roulette... Vietnam is AMAZING but stuff happens. I use SafetyWing because it's built for people who travel long-term and you can sign up even after you've already left home.

Get a SafetyWing Quote

Who Is the Ha Giang Loop For?

Anyone. Seriously. If you can sit on the back of a bike and you love nature, this is for you.

There was one other gay guy in my group (very young), and nobody cared. It was all love.

I was the only Black person in my group. There were a few other Black travelers in the bigger group we rode with, but not a lot. And that's exactly why I'm writing this. More of US need to be doing this. And the locals? They LOVED us, okay? If you've been wondering how Vietnam treats Black travelers, read my take on whether Southeast Asia is safe for Black gay men.

How Much Does the Ha Giang Loop Cost?

Prices change, so check before you go, but here's a rough idea for 2026:

  • 3-day easy rider tour: about $170โ€“220. BiBi's 3-day loop starts at 4,340,000 VND (around $165).

  • Sleeper bus Hanoi to Ha Giang: about $18โ€“26 each way

  • Private room upgrade: about $10โ€“12 more per night. WORTH IT.

  • Tip for your easy rider: about $10โ€“20 a day. These drivers work HARD.

  • Drinks and snacks: beers are about $1โ€“2 each at the homestays, plus coffees, coconuts and snacks at every stop

  • Entrance fees: a couple of dollars here and there

My advice: on top of the tour price, bring at least $60โ€“100 in cash (around 1.5 to 2.5 million VND) for tips, drinks, snacks and anything extra. ATMs are limited once you leave Ha Giang City, so get your cash BEFORE the loop starts.

Homestays: Get the Private Room

You sleep in homestays along the route, and they were great. Most tours put you in a shared dorm by default. If you can afford it, get your own private room. After 7 or 8 hours on a bike, being able to shower in peace, spread your stuff out and sleep without 15 strangers snoring is EVERYTHING.

Where to Stay in Ha Giang City

Your tour starts and ends in Ha Giang City, and depending on when your bus gets in, you might want a night before or after. BiBi has its own hostel where the tours start, but if you want something a little nicer, here's where I'd look:

๐Ÿจ Where to Stay in Ha Giang City
HotelAreaWhy I'd Book It
Truong Xuan ResortJust outside the cityBungalows by the river with mountain views, the nicest stay near townCheck Prices
Royal Hotel Ha GiangCity centerSolid 3-star with air con, comfy and easyCheck Prices
Dinh Gia HotelRiversideSome rooms look out over the river, plus a restaurant and barCheck Prices
Phoenix Hotel Ha GiangCity centerGarden and terrace, good valueCheck Prices
Bong HostelCity centerBudget pick if you just need a bed before the loopCheck Prices

What to Pack for the Ha Giang Loop (Keep It MINIMAL)

Please do not go crazy with your packing. I packed the exact number of outfits I needed and that's it. Your bag gets strapped to the back of the bike, so less is MORE. Here's all you need:

  • One outfit per day (lightweight, quick-dry if you have it)

  • Something to sleep in

  • A light jacket or hoodie for cold mornings and nights up in the mountains

  • Swimsuit for the waterfall

  • Comfortable closed-toe shoes plus sandals

  • Sunglasses and sunscreen

  • Toothbrush and toothpaste

  • Phone, charger and a power bank

  • Cash

That's it. Ask your tour company if you can leave your big luggage in Ha Giang City while you ride. Most tours also provide the helmet and protective gear, so confirm that too.

Best Time to Do the Ha Giang Loop

The sweet spots are March to May and September to November, when the weather is drier and cooler. October and November are also buckwheat flower season. I went in early June, and it was HOT, with the rainy season starting to roll in. It was still amazing, but bring sunscreen and expect to sweat.

Try to avoid Tet (Lunar New Year) and the big Vietnamese holidays, when the roads and homestays get packed with domestic tourists.

๐ŸŽŸ๏ธ Book Your Ha Giang Loop

FAQ

How many days do you need for the Ha Giang Loop?
Three days, two nights is the sweet spot. That's what I did, and it covers the big stuff: Du Gia, Ma Pi Leng Pass, Dong Van and the famous curvy road. Four days gives you a slower pace.

Do I need to know how to ride a motorbike?
Not if you book an easy rider. You just sit on the back. I'd only self-drive if you're already confident riding on mountain roads.

Is the Ha Giang Loop safe?
I never felt unsafe with my easy rider. Wear ALL the protective gear, choose a company with experienced drivers and get travel insurance that covers motorbikes.

How do I get from Hanoi to Ha Giang?
Sleeper bus. Check out my Vietnam sleeper bus reviews, or ask your tour company to book it for you.

Can you see China from the Ha Giang Loop?
Yes! On the way to Dong Van there are spots where you can see across the border into China.

Is the Ha Giang Loop good for Black or LGBTQ+ travelers?
In my experience, yes. I was the only Black person in my group, the locals were super warm, and there was another gay guy on the trip and nobody cared.

Plan the Rest of Your Vietnam Trip

Vietnam Sleeper Bus Reviews ยท Things to Do in Ninh Binh ยท Cheapest Cities in Vietnam ยท Is Da Nang Worth Visiting?

The Bottom Line

The Ha Giang Loop is one of the best things I know I will EVER do in my life. I highly, HIGHLY recommend it. Book the easy rider, get the private room, suit up, pack light... and go.

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